While flying from Kabul to Herat is easier, overlanding the distance is way more adventurous. And I don’t mean via the ring road, but through the center of Afghanistan. Despite the roads being some of the worst you will ever see, you will be rewarded with amazing vistas, incredible hospitality, and historical sights, such as the Buddhas of Bamyan and the Minaret of Jam.

Ready for an adventure? Read on, figure out how to undertake this journey, and hear some stories from along the way.

Day 1: From Kabul to Bamyan

This will be the easiest part of the journey, so enjoy it. From Kabul, you take a minibus to Bamyan. The buses depart from a station on the western edge of Kabul. Most taxi drivers will know it and can take you there for around 400 Afghani depending on your negotiation skills. A bus will leave when it is full and costs only 350 Afghani per person for the 5-hour journey.

There have been some reports of travelers being turned back to Kabul since the attacks on Spanish tourists in Bamyan in May 2024. However, other foreigners have made it through. I sat in the back of the bus and had no trouble getting to Bamyan.

Once in Bamyan, I suggest going to Gholghola city first. Here you buy a ticket for all the historical sites in Bamyan. The site is impressive and gives an amazing view of the entire valley. Afterward, you can head towards the Buddhas.

I stayed at the Roof of Bamyan Hotel which boasts great views of the Buddhas. Tip: Ask for the traditional rooms on the roof. This is a unique opportunity to stay in a traditional mud house at no extra cost. We paid 1700 Afghani per room.

Day 2: From Bamyan to Band-e-amir

In the next part of the journey, the elevation increases. Some of the mountain passes are over 3500m in elevation. This is where I started to understand why Afghanistan is such a difficult place to control and govern.

At the time I was traveling with some other people and we shared a taxi to go to Band-e-amir, but there are plenty of different ways to get there. However, if you do decide to take a taxi visit Dragon Valley. Dragon Valley is on the outskirts of Bamyan and has some stunning natural scenery. At the top, there is a natural spring and the rocks are all different colors due to the metal and mineral content in the water. There might be some herds of goats drinking from the spring if you are lucky.

After that, it is about a 3-4 hour drive to get to Band-e-amir. Most of it will be on a well-paved road except the last half hour. Luckily the vistas make up for it.

The village at Band-e-amir is quite touristy with markets, shops, restaurants, different games you can play, and, of course, the pedal boats out on the lake. Most of the tourists were Afghans and they were keen to talk to us..

We stayed at one of the tents very close to the lake. Walking by the lake in the morning without any other tourists is an absolute treat. Tip: you are unlikely to have steady power in the tents, so bring a power bank.

Day 3: from Band-e-Amir to Chagcharan

Today the adventure will start as you head into central Afghanistan. I suggest you start early.

From the gates to Band-e-amir you can hitchhike a ride to the town of Yakawlang. The ride should take about 40 minutes and most of the road will be paved. This will be the last stretch of tarmac you see all day!

Yakawlang is a small town. The next sizeable town on the way to Chagcharan is Laal. From Yakawlang there are two roads out. One heading west and one heading south. The one heading west is more direct towards Laal, whereas the one heading south takes a detour through the town of Panjab.

I walked to the edge of town and tried to hitchhike on each road for about an hour. Unfortunately, I had no luck on either road and received many strange stares from the locals. You might have more luck than me!

I decided to head to the only hotel in town to figure out my next move. I found someone who spoke English, and it quickly became clear that the only way out was to hire a private car.

Having found a driver he explained that the road heading west is pretty much undriveable, but he could take me to the town of Panjab for 50 euros. This meant taking the detour. After a quick tire change, we were off!

Driving this stretch takes about 3 hours and goes through some very remote parts. I thoroughly enjoyed this part of the journey, despite the awful state of the road. We passed through many tiny villages and beautiful valleys. Some of the valleys were filled with flowers that smelled like Lavender. When you have time, I recommend making frequent stops to take photos and take it all in.

In Panjab, I hoped to hitchhike to Laal, but there was hardly any traffic on the main road. Daylight was fading and I headed into town. In the center, you can find a driver who takes you directly to Laal. It costs approximately 50 euros for another 3-hour drive. The state of the road is bad, but the views make up for it!

In Laal, ask to be dropped off at a shared taxi stand. I joined two Afghan guys and we shared a ride to Chagcharan. It is good to know that the locals do not call it Chagcharan, but Gyor, the name of the province. The cost is 1000 Afghani each and it takes about 4 hours.

Chagcharan feels like a metropolis compared to the other towns along the way. Showing true Afghan hospitality my local friends invited me to stay at their place.

Day 4: from Chagcharan to Herat

In Chagcharan minibuses are going to Herat. The catch, it takes about 24 hours. I contemplated this for a while but decided to go for it.

On the way, you want to spend some time at the minaret of Jam. My Afghan friends convinced the driver to wait at the minaret for half an hour if I paid an additional 1000 Afghani. I felt bad about letting all the other passengers wait half an hour, but the driver and the passengers did not seem to care.

Be prepared as this will be a very uncomfortable bus ride. The roads are bad, the seats are hard, and there is no space. Enjoy the adventure and the stunning views.

After about 6 hours you arrive at the minaret of Jam. A spectacular sight! It is much bigger than I anticipated and the decorations are beautiful. Its remote location only adds to the mystical feeling of the minaret.

There used to be a footbridge, but that was washed away, so you must wade through the river. After buying a ticket and showing your permits you can check out the minaret. All the passengers got off the bus and joined me to check out the minaret. Everyone was smiling and happily taking photos, so I didn’t feel bad about adding half an hour to the journey anymore.

Over the next 18 hours, the mountains slowly turn into hills, which slowly turn into desert. Sleep will be hard to come by. Do not forget to look at the night sky when the bus stops during the night. It is truly breathtaking given the total lack of light pollution.

Upon arriving in Herat I felt proud, grateful, and tired. I completed a journey that not many have. I recommend this journey to everyone looking for an adventure through the remoteness of central Afghanistan!